Colonial Mexico

The chiming of church bells and the clanging of cowbells melded together as we approached San Miguel de Allende, a colonial town in the heartland of Mexico. The tires on our rental car rubbed against the curbs of the narrow, cobblestone streets. Giggling schoolchildren, making their way home for lunch, clustered in groups on the sidewalks.

The stucco buildings are restored haciendas from the 17th and 18th centuries. You can peek inside the cooling courtyards filled with flowering plants potted in ceramic urns. Red hibiscus, orange lilies, lavender bougainvillea and white gardenia greet the eye. Sometimes I spotted a fountain in the center of a courtyard. The stucco walls could be painted terracotta, ochre, rose or deep blue. The carved wooden entry doors might be latched to block out the street noise.

As my husband and I walked on Calle Correo, the raindrops punctuated the strong sunlight. The soles of our shoes gripped the slippery stones. The sidewalks often had space for only one person. I had read that the correct protocol is to step down into the street if an elderly couple or a parent with a child approaches, as long as you are the one facing the oncoming traffic. We stopped for lunch at El Pegaso where arrachera, tender beef, was accompanied by refried beans, spicy salsa and smooth guacamole.

The heartland is at the center of the country and is fertile territory. The lush mountains covered with pine-oak forests and deep green prickly pear cacti patches surprised us. We had imagined a barren, arid Mexican landscape. In the 1500’s, the Spaniards discovered this promising land, rich with silver mines. It was only a matter of time before they set out to conquer it. Under Spanish rule for centuries, enchanting towns like San Miguel de Allende flourished. The buildings from that period still line the streets and pepper the hillsides. Those that are restored provide a glimpse of life during that era.

As we continued to meander, we found that some streets were closed while crews of men were resetting the stones by hand. Earmarked as a national historic site many decades ago, San Miguel’s old world charm is protected. Fabrica La Aurora, a collection of artists’ studios and galleries located in an abandoned cotton mill is situated at one end of town. This building is an excellent example of the creative way in which older structures are regularly adapted for reuse. We enjoyed meeting weavers, metal sculptors and painters while we viewed their work.

When we wandered closer to La Buena Vida Bakery, we inhaled the scent of freshly baked breads, muffins and rolls. Meringue hearts topped with fresh raspberries and cream, crunchy vermicelli pancakes added to black bean soup, and boneless chicken breasts stuffed with ham and caramelized onions were some of the dishes we savored at Casa de Sierra Nevada, the renovated villa where we were staying. We learned that the values of home cooking, family and church are vitally important in this country. Recipes are passed down from one generation to the next, because food is a way to nurture and to love. Even the smallest village has a central square with a church providing its focal point. Here the main plaza is called El Jardin. A Gothic cathedral looms beside it.

At Casa de Sierra Nevada, the young man at the reception desk knew that it was my birthday. That afternoon our room was strewn with dozens of red rose petals, chocolates and flickering votives. On our bureau was a startling bouquet of white lilies. In the morning as we prepared to leave, I realized it was impossible for us to take the large glass vase with us. On the inn’s patio, I saw that a baby shower was about to begin. I handed my flowers to the guest of honor who was imminently expecting her first son. She and the other women in her extended family hugged me, and communicated with their limited English and my inadequate Spanish, that my husband and I should take a basket of their enticing pastries so we wouldn’t get hungry on the road.

Our next destination was Guanajuato, the birthplace of famed muralist Diego Rivera and a university town, which is now a World Heritage site. On the way we stopped at Dolores Hidalgo, a small hamlet where the insurgency against Spanish rule began. Here in 1810, Father Miguel Hidalgo delivered an inspiring sermon that strengthened the Mexican resolve to win independence. Further along the winding route is Santa Rosa. Impressive urns strategically placed by the side of the road beckoned us to stop. We parked at the Mayolicas factory store and were greeted by Rosa who explained that the patriarch of the family had started the company forty years earlier. It has grown and now supports fifty families in this picturesque village. Vases, pitchers and platters are hand turned on the wheel. Rosa showed us inside the factory where artisans, both family members and other town residents, paint intricate designs on each piece.

The road to Guanajuato climbs sharply through the mountains. The town is nestled in the hills. After a major flood in 1905, the river was diverted and a tunnel system was created that successfully keeps traffic away from the historic center and leaves many of the streets for pedestrians only. Jardin Union, the main plaza, is a hub of activity with leather-faced men wearing either sombreros or NY baseball caps while they sell woven shawls, ponchos and vests. Ancient women sit on benches, chatting and clutching their handbags on their laps. University students wearing jeans and logo tee shirts are smoking cigarettes. Mothers promenade with their babies and shepherd youngsters in school uniforms selling packages of chicklets. There are strolling mariachi players, mimes and magicians.

Behind the plaza is a maze of bustling alleyways. Houses painted lavender, turquoise, orange, red, bright blue or yellow rise steeply along these passageways. Dogs bark from wrought iron balconies while residents sweep their front stoops. Toddlers stare curiously at us while two little girls shyly wave.

The Museo Casa Diego Rivera has many drawings as well as some of the studies that the artist completed in preparation for his giant murals. Perhaps the most famous of these is “A Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park”. Since the time of the Aztecs, Alameda Park has been a central part of life in Mexico City. In this piece of art, Rivera chronicles his own life and highlights pivotal figures in Mexican history. He whimsically adds a likeness of himself as a young boy and a portrait of his wife, the painter Frida Kahlo. Another museum worth a detour is Museo Iconografico del Quijote that houses one man’s private collection of all things inspired by Cervantes’ Don Quixote. There are paintings, sculptures, tapestries and books. This museum’s benefactor, Eulalio Ferrer, was a Spanish journalist who was imprisoned in a Spanish concentration camp. His vision of the man of La Mancha sustained him during this difficult period.

At the edge of the Jardin, we stopped for crepes and café con leche at an outdoor table in front of the Hotel Museo Posada Santa Fe. From our vantage point, we looked up at the Greek muses gazing down from the roof of the Teatro Juarez, a neo-classical theatre dating from 1903. This building is a stunning composition of multi-colored local limestone. Costumed musicians gathered on the bandstand in the middle of the plaza while my husband and I perused our guidebooks, and marveled at the territory we had covered in five days.


If you go:

Many airlines fly Boston-Leon: American, Continental, Northwest and Delta. They connect through Dallas, Houston, Detroit and Atlanta. After renting a car at the airport, it took us under two hours to drive to San Miguel. Guanajuato is 45 minutes from the airport. We have some Spanish comprehension and some ability to speak the language. English can be scarce in many places.

In addition to the Casa de Sierra Nevada in San Miguel de Allende, I noted Villa Jacaranda, a warm and inviting property near the Jardin. The Vista Real Hotel has a grand view of the valley, lovely gardens, and a restaurant.

We stayed at Villa Maria Cristina in Guanajuato. It is a glorious, restored hacienda that requires walking 25 minutes to the historic center. We enjoyed the exercise and the calm of sleeping at a distance from the hectic activity. It is easy to find taxis if you are tired of walking. Options in town are the Hotel Museo Posada Santa Fe, a historic inn dating from the 1860’s that is right on the main plaza. Hosteria del Frayle, dates from the 1670’s when the building was used as an ore refinery. Now it is an appealing hotel near Jardin Union.

November-May brings pleasant weather, sunny days in the 70’s and nights cooling to the high 40’s. We experienced one passing shower, and warm evenings.